Part Two: Things to Make it Look Good and Cover Up Your Mistakes

5. Fancy FX. As well as your background layer, you've now got about three other layers of shading. Now we're going to add some FX. These aren't necessary, but I've found that a little flash of this sort of thing can really add to your image; often I use FX to integrate the background image with the foreground, such as in this picture. The amount of fiddling around you do with an image is up to you. Generally speaking I add at least two 'fancy FX', usually in the form of some sort of light. This can help to give the impression of a wider world around the image, such as light patches from an out-of-shot window falling over the image. Think of all the sources of light you might find in the surrounding area of the picture; lamps, sunlight, moonlight, TVs. In the martian picture I've used light coming from the sun to illuminate both the background and the alien. Rather than colour all this in tediously by hand, I've made use of the Power of Computers^TM.

First, create a new layer. I usually call this something like 'fancy FX'. To make the light effects I've used a size 30 brush with 0% hardness and 5% opacity with an orangey yellow colour. On its own, the layer looks something like the picture on the left. I've then applied a Blend Mode of Dodge (Layer > Properties). This seems to be the reverse of the Burn mode, as it creates very striking areas of brightness. With this mode applied, I've shaded around the image, paying most attention to around the sun, and to the left side of the alien's face. I've also added spots of brightness on the alien's eyes.

6. Reflections. Next is to add the reflections to the alien's eyes. Make a copy of the whole image, then do a Merge All Layers (Layers > Merge) on this copy. This new flat image will form the basis of the eye's reflections.

Cut and squash the image up until you have something about the size of the alien's eye. Then use a Warp Deformation (Image > Deformations) with size of about 40 and strength of about 30 to warp the image so that it mimics the curve of the martian's eye. Do another one of these for the other eye.

Go back to your main image. Create a new layer, but position this just underneath the 'fancy FX' layer. Call it something like 'eye reflections'. Copy and paste the two eye pieces from the other image onto this layer (Ctrl+V). I've adjusted to Layer Properties to Overlayer with Opacity of 50% so that I can see the layer below. I've moved the eye pieces over the original eyes in the layers below, then used the freehand select (or 'lassoo') tool to cut away the excess from the edge of the eye reflection, so that it matches up with the eye proper.

7. Final Touches. Usually this final layer is a simple Normal Blend Mode with 100% opacity, where I add things like eyelashes or other little fine details. In this image, all I've done is added a bit of purple mist around the martian city, just to add some depth to that area. The image is now finished!

8. Afterword: General Tips. One big advantage a computer artist has to the ability to fix huge problems with a picture without starting again. In the past I've used cut, paste and the deformation tool to adjust problems of proportion and posture in images. Plus you have a zoom function; if you're not sure about the proportions or general look of a picture, zoom out till it's very small. Then you'll notice more easily things you've missed; if you're viewing your image at full size it's often a case of not being able to see the woods for the trees. You'll focus on small details while missing glaring big errors.

Similarly, getting someone else's opinion can be helpful, because another person will look at the image as a whole, rather than see the complete creative process like you would. So things you've subconsciously blinded yourself to will be obvious and apparent to them.

Another bit of advice is that if you're getting to the stage where you're spending most of your time correcting mistakes, it might be a good idea to start again. All my best pictures are ones that have come easily without any fiddling about. Don't underestimate the value of the pencil background layer; any mistakes you've made in the drafting process will usually show themselves in the computer image. It's best to spend a long time over the line drawing, perhaps creating many drafts, rather than draw a mediocre draft and hope you'll be able to fix it later.
 

Well, I'm all tutorialled out, so good luck. If anyone's been helped by this tutorial, or by seeing my images, then please give me an email or sign my guestbook. I have even been known to answer questions; just don't ask me about the specifics of Photoshop, because I don't use it!
 
 
 
 

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